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Post by davidsyj on Mar 29, 2013 7:25:27 GMT -6
I have pics but can't load them up till later.
When I bought my YJ it had about 125k on it and puffed a little smoke out at crank up. Well, in October of 2012 at SMORR it started smoking like a freight train. So when we got home I pulled the motor/tranny in one shot seeing how I needed to replace the clutch anyway. I pulled the head and found that all six exhaust valves were burnt, all of their seats were shot, and of course the valve seals were bad. So I sent it out to get rebuilt, Richard Gray did the work and did an awesome job and treated me real good. He's up in Tipton County and has been doing engine work for years.
Well, I didn't really want to tear down the bottom end but found that the rings were washed out so I pulled the crank and rods. Good thing I did this because all of the main journals were chewed up. Luckily enough, the cylinder walls are ok, just need to be honed not bored out. Had to get the crank turned .010. So back to Richard I went and got the crankshaft turned. I was going to put a two piece header on (which I have) but I'm going to have to wait seeing how it's costing me enough to do all this other work. I will run the stock manifold and exhaust system I have until later when I can afford to get the exhaust system done how I want it.
As it stands right now I have the new clutch sitting in the tranny, I have the head back, and the crankshaft. I'm sticking with the stock camshaft because it's not worn and my friend Brian who works at Eagle Specialty Products inspected it and said it'll be ok to run it (he's an engine guru). I plan on having the block and other components cleaned and painted within the next few days.
This is the begining of the engine build thread so give me some time to get the pics up and more info in here.
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Post by davidsyj on Mar 31, 2013 13:28:09 GMT -6
Obviously this is the day it came out. It was easier to just remove the bumper, winch, and grill assy because of how high this thing sits. I didn't want to take a chance on the cherry picker not jacking up high enough to clear everything. Plus I didn't feel like wrastlin' with the hood alone.
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Post by davidsyj on Mar 31, 2013 18:28:27 GMT -6
So here it is torn apart.This is where we found the rings washed out and eventually the messed up crank shaft.... And after a little bit of cleaning and such, here it is mocked up a lil and ready to be put back together. I used some wire brushes, a putty knife, a flat head screw driver, scotch pads, Purple Power Degreaser and a few cans of brake parts cleaner (I'm sure Ben will chime in and say "You should've used.....blah blah blah). I think it's gonna look pretty good...
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Post by Somebody on Mar 31, 2013 18:29:42 GMT -6
I LOVE IT!!!
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Post by davidsyj on Mar 31, 2013 20:19:13 GMT -6
I LOVE IT!!! You'll notice that the motor is painted in the same blue that I used on my shocks. Just being a nerd and keeping that color flowing.
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Post by mike on Mar 31, 2013 21:50:39 GMT -6
what a nerd, but it is looking good !!
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Post by davidsyj on Apr 1, 2013 19:28:44 GMT -6
Got the phone call today that the rins/bearings are in. So today was a cleaning day again. I put some Purple Power cleaner in my drip pan and cleaned main caps/bolts, head bolt, oil pan bolts, pullys, bolts/bolts/and more bolts along with a bunch of misc. parts. It's amazing what you can do with a couple wire brushes and some good cleaner. Spent about two or three hours cleaning stuff and painting more parts. Wishing now I would've kept my parts washer
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Post by mike on Apr 1, 2013 20:58:05 GMT -6
You should have sold the grinder and kept the parts washer
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Post by davidsyj on Apr 4, 2013 6:38:07 GMT -6
All of the parts have been ordered to rebuild this motor. I have the rings/bearings and all the other parts will be here today by 11:00 a.m. :pickles:Me and Brian will be in the garage Saturday putting this thing back together. Now Brian is one of those engine guys that mics, measures, test fits, adjusts, degrees, and all that jazz so I will try to take as many pics as possible and get as much info as possible posted up. I will be concentrating on this rebuild Saturday, Sunday, Monday and Tuesday. Over those four days this thing will be up and running and ready to go to the Cruise In on Friday night in Horn Lake. Stay tuned...............................
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Post by Somebody on Apr 4, 2013 7:15:53 GMT -6
All of the parts have been ordered to rebuild this motor. I have the rings/bearings and all the other parts will be here today by 11:00 a.m. :pickles:Me and Brian will be in the garage Saturday putting this thing back together. Now Brian is one of those engine guys that mics, measures, test fits, adjusts, degrees, and all that jazz so I will try to take as many pics as possible and get as much info as possible posted up. I will be concentrating on this rebuild Saturday, Sunday, Monday and Tuesday. Over those four days this thing will be up and running and ready to go to the Cruise In on Friday night in Horn Lake. Stay tuned............................... I so wanna come watch someone that knows how to rebuild an engine work... Always been facinated by the internals but never bothered to learn!
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Post by TJNoe on Apr 4, 2013 7:55:17 GMT -6
Lookin good David! I can't wait to hear that thing purr! And. of course, see it on the trails!!!
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Post by James on Apr 4, 2013 9:09:58 GMT -6
Lookin good David! I can't wait to hear that thing PING! And. of course, see it on the trails!!! Fixed it for you.
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Post by davidsyj on Apr 4, 2013 9:14:17 GMT -6
All of the parts have been ordered to rebuild this motor. I have the rings/bearings and all the other parts will be here today by 11:00 a.m. :pickles:Me and Brian will be in the garage Saturday putting this thing back together. Now Brian is one of those engine guys that mics, measures, test fits, adjusts, degrees, and all that jazz so I will try to take as many pics as possible and get as much info as possible posted up. I will be concentrating on this rebuild Saturday, Sunday, Monday and Tuesday. Over those four days this thing will be up and running and ready to go to the Cruise In on Friday night in Horn Lake. Stay tuned............................... I so wanna come watch someone that knows how to rebuild an engine work... Always been facinated by the internals but never bothered to learn! I figure there's a few folks that would like to have this information. I'm one of those guys that just throws an engine together, torques it all down, and hits the road. The technical stuff, not so much into doing that. But I'll try to get as much info as possible in here for everyone.
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Post by davidsyj on Apr 4, 2013 9:16:05 GMT -6
Lookin good David! I can't wait to hear that thing purr! And. of course, see it on the trails!!! Thanks Noe. I have decided to wait on the header until I can get it ceramic coated from Ricks Powder Coating. I know there's not a shit ton of heat that comes out of this engine but I'm mainly doing it for the appearance and ease of cleaning. Bad part is the cost, it'll be a while before I get it done. The next thing on the list will be gears. Then I'll concentrate on the exhaust.
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Post by davidsyj on Apr 7, 2013 7:38:55 GMT -6
Man oh man was yesterday a very productive day. We, well I say we but it was actually Brian, got the bottom end together. Sounds simple but it involved a lot of precise measurements and good math skills to determine journal and bearing clearances, the amount of ring gap for the compression rings, and to measure the amount of forward and rearward thrust on the crankshaft. Now, there's many pictures that were taken but most of them are on Weezies phone as mine was tied up playing Pandora radio so I'll post the few that I have and will get the rest posted when I receive them from Weezie. The reason for measuring the clearance between the main/rod journals and all the bearings is to determine how much gap there will be for the oil to actually run in inbetween the two surfaces, which is typically known as Oil Clearance. How do you do this? Well, you torque down all the main caps to the block with the bearings in place and the crankshaft out of the motor and you torque down all the rod caps with the bearings in place and the rods out of the motor. Then you take this fancy tool that looks like something out of Star Trek (if you know that show) and you use it to determine the inner surface area of the bearings (there's a pic of it in use). To measure the journals on the crankshaft you simply use a Outside Micrometer or some folks call it a Caliper. Now this is where the fancy math skills come into play because you have to do some addition and subtraction on the numbers you get in order to find out how much clearance you have. There will always be a difference in the numbers, not all of them will measure out exactly the same which is why you have a "tolerance" level vs a "exact number" for each surface. If you were machining the block and rods you would be able to move the rods around to make more precise fittings but in my case the rods were already numbered and the clearances were so close we elected to place them back on their respective places on the crankshaft. Now to the thrust (or throw) on the crankshaft play. The reason to measure this on the "Thrust Bearing" is to determine once again, the amount of oil clearance on the bearing surface. The thrust bearing is different from the main journal bearings because it not only protects the journal area of the crankshaft but it also has bearing surface that is on the outside of the cap/block area. This extra bearing surface is what the crankshaft actually pushes against when you either engage or disengage the clutch. The action of doing this will actually move the crankshaft forwards with pressure applied to the clutch and then rearward once the clutch has been released. So if you don't have enough clearance on the Thrust bearing you have to make some. How do you do this? Well, after measuring the bearing surfaces you remove all the main caps, cover the main journals with assembly lube, place the crankshaft in place and then snug the main caps down. With the crankshaft in place you will put a dial indicator with a magnetic base onto the front of the motor to help measure the play. My crankshaft didn't have enough forward thrust clearance so we had to remove the crankshaft and then the thrust bearing. Using a piece of wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface (my workbench), Brian was able to set the thrust bearing surface flat on the paper, spray some WD40, and using a circular motion sand down a little bit of the surface. Luckily he only had to do this one time because this process has to be repeated every time you adjust the thrust bearing surface (place crank in motor, snug the caps, measure the thrust, remove everything, sand the bearing, etc etc etc) You get the point. So once this was all finished we were finally ready to put the bottom end of the motor completely together and torque everything down. Once the bottom end of the motor was together we installed the camshaft. Now remember when you put the camshaft in and before installing the timing chain you have to have the two dots (one on the cam gear and one on the crank gear) pointing at eachother or the motor will be no bueno for running. We put the lifters back into their respective bores (when reusing lifters be sure to put them somewhere in the order they came out of the motor so they can go back in the same spots) and put the cylinder head on. BIG THANKS TO MIKE PENNY FOR POSTING THE "HELPFUL LINKS" THREAD, AS WE WERE ABLE TO GET ALL OF OUR TORQUE SPECS WE NEEDED FROM THAT THREAD!!!!! I know there is some stuff that I'm either skipping over or have forgotten, and I know there are guys reading this that have a vast knowledge of this kind of stuff so if you see that there is something useful that you would like to ad please do so. All these steps are whats called "Blueprinting" the engine. Now there is documentation in writing and photos that shows my motor has been blueprinted. I didn't do the balancing part of this because we didn't change any rods, pistons, or other interior components and the engine had no vibrations when it was pulled. The crankshaft was balanced after it was ground down so that's the only part that was done. Here's some pics of what we did, this all took about 6 hours to accomplish with very minimal drinking and Weezie standing around asking a bunch of questions...... I'll get the other pics loaded up ASAP but these will get things started. Crankshaft in place checking thrust... Crankshaft out to adjust oil clearance for thrust... This is Brian, he is tall. Sanding the side of the thrust bearing to make the adjustment...... With the crank/rods/cam in place getting ready for the timing chain cover install... Cylinder head installed and as it sat when we were finished last night (have some gaskets to get for Sundays work)...
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