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Post by BEN on Apr 9, 2013 21:22:25 GMT -6
good stuff
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Post by davidsyj on Apr 10, 2013 6:06:33 GMT -6
Sweet Jesus!!! Looks great man.. I know it was hard work for that guy that helped you... JK Curious to know how well it runs compared to before... Man, if it wasn't for Brian this thing wouldn't be running right now. Me and Weezie just stepped back and let him do his thing. Honestly, I think he had the easy job!! Before the rebuild the motor was smoking real bad an was weak. It would take a little effort to get it started but luckily it didn't have a knock or anything. After the break in period I let it sit an idle and even drove it a few miles and talk about a huge difference. The engine is nice and quiet, it's strong, idles smooth, and is very responsive. I've also got to get used to the new clutch which is now a bit touchy. Have to drive it a lot more and get use to that new sweet spot.
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Post by mike on Apr 10, 2013 6:36:54 GMT -6
You keep mentioning a "break in " period, what did he recommend for break in. My break in routine has been to use a thick oil and be easy on them for the first 500 miles and then change the oil and filter and use your normal viscosity oil.
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Post by Weezul on Apr 10, 2013 14:18:06 GMT -6
IIRC he said to do exactly the way Bob did it. Run it for about 30 minutes with the Rotella and then dump it and put in the regular oil and it is good to go. He mentioned if something was wrong, it would show itself in the first 30 minutes.
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Post by mike on Apr 10, 2013 14:59:10 GMT -6
I don't want to say he's wrong but it takes more than 30 minutes for rings and bearings etc.. to get broke in completely and all seated in place. Some engines will even smoke slightly for a couple hundred miles after a rebuild until the rings and valves get seated completely. I guess a major problem like a rod or spinning bearing will be noticeable within 30 mins
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Post by davidsyj on Apr 10, 2013 15:28:25 GMT -6
Weezie has most of it correct.
I was told to run the motor at the 1500-1800 RPM range for about 10 minutes solid, after that to let it sit band run at idle while setting the timing where I wanted it, adjusting the carb, and just watching for leaks and listening for any strange noises. Then put a few miles on it and dump the oil. This all took about 45 minutes total. I then put the new oil in and a new filter. The 500 mile theory is what even I am used to and have done with all my new engines. But, I trust Brian's input and knowledge 100%. He builds engines all the time and has so much knowledge it's stupid. He did say after the motors been run for about 20-30 miles it's all broke in. That's why he was talking about with any problems showing up, that they'd do it pretty soon after the motors been fired up.
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Post by slinky on Apr 10, 2013 15:39:53 GMT -6
sorry couldn't resist...
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Post by James on Apr 10, 2013 19:15:42 GMT -6
LOL, I say that every time I fire one up after having it apart.
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Post by davidsyj on Jul 14, 2013 9:26:39 GMT -6
To give a quick update on the engine.
I've ran this thing pretty damn hard a few times now since the rebuild. Have driven it to Horn Lake and back, been to Hawk Pride three times with it, and have driven it a few miles here and there around town. The engine runs great, clutch feels awesome.
I didn't have a breather in the front of the valve cover (just a pcv valve in the rear grommet) so on my way home from Horn Lake driving on the interstate it wanted to spit some oil out of that front grommet. No big deal, I went to the parts store the next morning and got a breather that fit in the grommet and solved that problem.
On the trails the last time out it wanted to run a little hot. I have to replace my fan clutch to help with the cooling and I need to install some hood vents. Eventually I'll be converting to a full on propane system because the carburator likes to flood out on steep inclines. Running 37" tires with 3.73 gears isn't very much fun either with a 5spd so those will be swapped out too when my money tree gets planted and starts sprouting some cash.
All in all it's doing great, runs good and strong. Brian did an awesome job on the bottom end and I really couldn't be happier with how it turned out.
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Post by Somebody on Jul 14, 2013 9:52:13 GMT -6
To give a quick update on the engine. I've ran this thing pretty damn hard a few times now since the rebuild. Have driven it to Horn Lake and back, been to Hawk Pride three times with it, and have driven it a few miles here and there around town. The engine runs great, clutch feels awesome. I didn't have a breather in the front of the valve cover (just a pcv valve in the rear grommet) so on my way home from Horn Lake driving on the interstate it wanted to spit some oil out of that front grommet. No big deal, I went to the parts store the next morning and got a breather that fit in the grommet and solved that problem. On the trails the last time out it wanted to run a little hot. I have to replace my fan clutch to help with the cooling and I need to install some hood vents. Eventually I'll be converting to a full on propane system because the carburator likes to flood out on steep inclines. Running 37" tires with 3.73 gears isn't very much fun either with a 5spd so those will be swapped out too when my money tree gets planted and starts sprouting some cash. All in all it's doing great, runs good and strong. Brian did an awesome job on the bottom end and I really couldn't be happier with how it turned out. That's awesome... What does Brian know about Pontiac 389's??
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Post by N2DEEP on Jul 14, 2013 11:59:47 GMT -6
Something cheap and easy you may wanna try is going back up to a warmer thermostat. (OMG, WHY WOULD HE SAY THAT?!) That lower temp thermostat is going to be open more often and staying open longer. Just like you need the water to stay in the engine to heat up, you need it to stay in the radiator to cool down. You may be depriving it of that opportunity.
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Post by davidsyj on Jul 14, 2013 12:38:16 GMT -6
Something cheap and easy you may wanna try is going back up to a warmer thermostat. (OMG, WHY WOULD HE SAY THAT?!) That lower temp thermostat is going to be open more often and staying open longer. Just like you need the water to stay in the engine to heat up, you need it to stay in the radiator to cool down. You may be depriving it of that opportunity. I kinda see where you're coming from on that. But that would also leave hotter water in the engine longer. I know the stupid clutch isn't in the shape it should be, I used the old one not thinking about the consequences. It'll be easier to swap that out first, then go from there with the thermostat. And I must've had a bubble in the system because the last time we were all at HP I found the radiator about 1/2gal low.
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Post by N2DEEP on Jul 14, 2013 12:42:49 GMT -6
Just something to keep in mind. And yeah, that thing isn't air cooled.
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