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Post by davidsyj on Apr 7, 2013 7:44:40 GMT -6
And please, if you have any questions post em up and I'll do my best to anwer them for you. Or find someone who can.
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Post by mike on Apr 7, 2013 13:57:18 GMT -6
Looks like you were paying attention. Did you have the machine shop assemble the head ? And you might want to do a little explaining on valve adjustment, That would just about cover a complete build except the rings, gasket/seal installs and valve and valve spring assembly.
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Post by slinky on Apr 8, 2013 6:08:06 GMT -6
glad to see you getting things back together Dave..
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Post by davidsyj on Apr 8, 2013 19:44:02 GMT -6
Looks like you were paying attention. Did you have the machine shop assemble the head ? And you might want to do a little explaining on valve adjustment, That would just about cover a complete build except the rings, gasket/seal installs and valve and valve spring assembly. Good point Mike. Yes, the machine shop did all of the head work including the assembly on it. They had to cut out all 6 exhaust valve seats and install new ones. They did all of the valve adjustments so I'm not sure exactly which method they used to do so. What I can tell you all is that the rocker arms are non adjustable on these engines so all I had to do was bolt the rocker assemblies in place and torque them down. On the ring install and check all we did was place the two compression rings into the cylinders and then straighten them up with one of the pistons by turning the piston over, pushing it into the cylinder and using the top of it to make sure the rings were in the cylinders straight. Of course there is a top compression ring, a number 2 compression ring, and then the oil ring (the oil ring doesn't go through this procedure). The reason for test fitting the compression rings is to verify the ring "gap". Once again, there is a tolerance that you need to be in in order to have the proper amount of compression per cylinder. If the ring gap is too tight and the measurements are way off you can take a simple file and file the end of the ring a little to open the gap and get within the required tolerance measurement. Luckily, again, all of the rings measured out within the tolerance needed so we didn't have to adjust any of the ring gaps. On the gaskets and seals I used the Fel-Pro gasket kit. When you purchase the engine rebuild kit you get all of the gaskets and seals that you need in one box. But when you order the engine gasket kit and you get the head gasket kit you have to make additional trips to the parts store to get the gaskets that didn't come in the kit you got and that you need........ The Fel-Pro oil pan gasket is REAL NICE. It's a one piece rubber seal with brass inserts where all of the bolt holes are. This is much better than the rubber seals on the front and rear and then the cork gaskets along the sides. When using rubber seals you don't need to put any RTV sealant down like you do with paper gaskets (I don't use any on cork gaskets either). So with the paper gaskets what I do is put a very thin layer of black RTV sealant and then wipe it with my finger to smooth it out over the entire gasket area. Then place the gasket onto the RTV and then the part onto the gasket. I've found that this method helps save the gasket if you need to pull that particular part off for some reason. As always, make sure to clean BOTH gasket surfaces very good. I use a thin putty knife, if needed a single edge razor blade, brake parts cleaner, and then hit the surface with either a red scotch pad or some 180 grit sandpaper on a block. And I use the black RTV over the orange because the black isn't as noticeable how I do my engines. They're always in BB Chevy blue (that'd be Big Block for all you non-gearheads). Ok, that's enough tutorial. I'll get the pics and brief descriptions up shortly.
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Post by davidsyj on Apr 8, 2013 19:58:01 GMT -6
This is where Brian was checking the journal to make sure it's round and that it's within the desired tolerance range.. Here is the main bearings being measured also... Star Trek tool. If you look at the right end of this you can see where this tool has two small wheels on the bottom of it and not seen in the pic is the top section of the tool. It has a small interchangeable dowl (of sorts)that pushes down in the housing and sends the measurement to the gauge on the left end. I'm sure someone can chime in and tell all of us the name of the Star Trek tool.. Previously in the thread I explained the crankshaft intsall but here it is with the oil pump in place and the camshaft.. (more to come)
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Post by davidsyj on Apr 8, 2013 20:07:32 GMT -6
After getting the engine to this point on the stand.... It was time to put the flywheel, clutch plate, pressure plate and new input shaft bushing on the back of the motor. BE SURE TO USE THE SUPPLIED CLUTCH PLATE ALIGNMENT TOOL THAT'S PROVIDED IN YOUR CLUTCH KIT OR YOU WILL NEVER GET THE TRANNY INTO PLACE. That would be the black popsicle lookin tool sitting on the ground in front of the engine... In order to get to that point in the previous pic I had to do some work. The original bushing in the back of the crankshaft for the front of the input shaft on the tranny was damaged. It looked like whoever put the AX15 in actually got the end of the shaft into the bushing. So I sat and tried a hammer and chisle. A hammer and screwdriver, and then a hammer and punch. None of these brilliant ideas worked and that's when it hit me, I have a heavy slide hammer with cool attachments that's bound to work. Just so happens that the shaft on the slide hammer is just a little bit bigger than the inside diameter of the brass bushing. This means I was able to screw the end of the slide hammer into the bushing and use it to pull the bushing out of the end of the crankshaft. BRILLIANT!!!!!!! Now in order to get the new bushing in took some ingenuity as well (didn't google the spelling of that word) so I used a 1/2" drive socket that was the same size as the bushing, taped the two together with Bobs help and hammered it in place.. So at the end of all that and about 30 minutes fighting with the tranny, me and Bobs were able to accomplish this...
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Post by davidsyj on Apr 8, 2013 20:12:16 GMT -6
Now as it stands the engine and tranny are in the Jeep. I'm down to the constant running back and forth to the parts store and dealing with the tedious little crap. Stay tuned for more pics of the finished product, tomorrow......
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Post by BEN on Apr 8, 2013 20:20:43 GMT -6
good stuff Bob. Can't wait to see the start up video!
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Post by James on Apr 8, 2013 20:49:17 GMT -6
Rotella
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Post by BEN on Apr 8, 2013 20:51:11 GMT -6
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Post by mike on Apr 8, 2013 20:52:15 GMT -6
That Star trek tool looks like some kind of "Dial Bore Gauge". I never seen one exactly like that but it's basically a type of "inside micrometer" and there are quite a few different types of them.
good write up Dave, Cant wait to see it in person Friday night
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Post by James on Apr 8, 2013 21:11:12 GMT -6
Great break in oil because it still has zinc in it.
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Post by davidsyj on Apr 9, 2013 20:21:34 GMT -6
Here it is after the initial installation in the engine compartment. You'll notice there are two different gaskets in this pic. I was a little confused so I used my Googlefoo to figure out exactly how these gaskets worked. Come to find out, the blue one is not needed. The silver gasket covers all the intake and exhaust runners and is the only one needed when replacing the intake/exhaust gasket. I left it in this pic just to show everyone the difference in the gaskets. I took the blue gasket, which is strictly for the intake, and removed it and used only the silver one. Also, theres one thing I forgot on the crankshaft/harmonic balancer. When I sent the crankshaft to be turned I didn't realize that it came back with no Woodruff Key in the end of it. This is the half-moon shaped key that sits on the end of the crankshaft that the harmonic balancer slides over and it's only purpose is to keep the balancer in place on the end of the crankshaft. THE WOODRUFF KEY SIZE IS 3/16" X 3/4"So today was the day. I finally got the engine all buttoned up, all the hoses ran, fuel lines, vacuum lines, got the radiator/grill assembly reinstalled, and the winch and bumper. After accomplishing all this and before starting the engine with no oil in any of the runners I used an engine priming tool to circulate the oil throughout the engine before cranking it up with dry bearings. It's a simple tool that goes into any 3/8" drive electric drill..... It's made just like the shaft that is inside the distributor housing and it goes directly into the top of the oil pump. All you do is run the drill until you have oil coming out of all the tips of the push rods and flowing evenly out of them. This took about 7-8 minutes because I had one push rod that didn't want to oil up as fast as the others. I imagine this is due to me not having the funds to get the block vatted (hot bathed....). Eventually it oiled up just as good as the rest so I let all the oil drain back into the engine and then went through the process one more time just to be certain I had oil pressure all the way throughout the engine. Well, here it is. The pics don't really do it any justice... On the break in period I ran the Rotella 15-40 oil with an STP filter. During initial break in stage I ran the motor between 1500-1800 RPM for approximately 10 minutes (yes, you have to hold the gas pedal in the right spot for these RPM's for 10 minutes). Reason for this is because if you just started the engine up, let it sit idle at 750-800 RPM's for 10 minutes you have a greater chance of shit binding up. Quicker turning means no way for stuff to build up in one spot. Once these long 10 minutes passed I checked my timing, adjusted the idle screw on the carb, and took it around the block. After this initial break in I dumped that oil and put in fresh fully synthetic oil and a new filter. This engine is brand new so it will only get synthetic in it now. I also used a 160 degree thermostat vs. the 195 degree one because, obviously, it will help the engine run cooler on the trails while sitting at idle. I hope I've made this interesting enough for everyone to read. I enjoyed documenting this for everyone. If I didn't cover something that you would like to know about please post up. I'm extremely tired and am glad it's all over!!! Also, you don't need to go out and buy every little thing brand spanking new just because you're doing an engine rebuild. I used a lot of Purple Power Degreaser, plenty of wire brushes, scotch pads, brake parts cleaner just so I could reuse a lot of my original parts/existing parts. I saved money where I could by not installing a new camshaft, new lifters, new pushrods, new rocker arms. I drained the antifreeze into a 5 gal bucket and putting it back in because it was new, I used my old exhaust and just modified it how I wanted it. This was a basic tear down and rebuild/reinstall. I am extremely satisfied with how it turned out and how well it's running.
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Post by grizzlyadams on Apr 9, 2013 21:08:40 GMT -6
Wahoo! The ghost lives!
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Post by Somebody on Apr 9, 2013 21:19:25 GMT -6
Sweet Jesus!!! Looks great man.. I know it was hard work for that guy that helped you... JK Curious to know how well it runs compared to before...
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