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Post by SW86 on Mar 22, 2015 6:45:24 GMT -6
So I've been tired of my gas tank hanging down underneath getting beat down. I know one day I'll punch a hole in it and be up shit creek. I am wondering about cells again (money to burn). So I want you to school me on anything to do with them. Hook ups to pumps to sending unit ohms to foam or not to whatever!
I can say I need 16 gallon tank and plastic is fine. That's all I know lol
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Post by mike on Mar 22, 2015 7:19:13 GMT -6
I do know you don't want aluminum. They don't last long in off-road vehicles
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Post by davidsyj on Mar 22, 2015 9:56:09 GMT -6
My cell is plastic with the foam inside it. I used an electric pump off eBay that pushes 5-9 lbs of pressure. It's run off a really and a power switch. Look at my thread where it's mounted. You want it as close to the cell as possible but below the bottom of it.
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Post by Weezul on Mar 22, 2015 10:04:15 GMT -6
I'd love to have a fuel cell. I hit the gas tank skid on everything!
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Fuel cells
Mar 22, 2015 10:27:48 GMT -6
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Post by SW86 on Mar 22, 2015 10:27:48 GMT -6
I think the cracking may be due to how the tank is mounted or I guess, just cheap. I don't see how lots of buggies do it and not deal with cracks. You have to transfer that energy made by slamming rocks some how...
I'm going plastic to avoid it all together though but I suppose does bring about the uv damage to plastic over time. Also what is the purpose of the foam? And has anyone here experienced the foam breakdown I've read about? The pump issue (from reading) seems like the ford e2000 pump is the way to go. It's readily available at parts stores and sounds like it runs the correct psi. How about the sending unit.. Is it worth it and I guess I'll have to figure out the ohms. I think you should be able to know how much fuel you have...
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Post by jeffreylane on Mar 22, 2015 10:44:09 GMT -6
I have seen a few of the aluminum cells crack, and every time they where mounted by the tabs on the cell. Never seen a problem running straps. I run an aluminum cell with aluminum straps and never had a problem. I'm not sure about the stainless Mike mentioned, a stainless cell sounds really expensive. Most of the cells use the standard GM sending units. I use an E2000 pump sitting directly below the cell. I had to put a new feed bung right in the middle of the tank bottom because I had problems cutting out on steep inclines when it was feeding from the sump (I have the sump aiming forward on mine. 2 E2000 pumps have died on me. Mine is sitting right now with a dead pump. Contemplating if I am going to change to an in - cell pump or to try for the " 3rd times a charm".
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Greg
Full Member
Posts: 330
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Fuel cells
Mar 22, 2015 12:45:01 GMT -6
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Post by Greg on Mar 22, 2015 12:45:01 GMT -6
I run a 15 gallon aluminum fuel cell recessed into the floor surrounded by steel and the tank is wrapped in roofing vally guard. I also used the factory tj sending unit by cutting a hole in the top and buying a ring kit to mount it. Been working great for a few years now through a lot of hard hits.
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Fuel cells
Mar 22, 2015 14:39:25 GMT -6
via mobile
Post by 06blackmax on Mar 22, 2015 14:39:25 GMT -6
You can buy a gauge and sending unit kit from Oreilys that is matched for ohms made by Autometer you May can get it off line somewhere too. And I would use aluminum vs. plastic for the strength.
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Post by Somebody on Mar 22, 2015 16:58:48 GMT -6
The aluminum cell in the Ghoulie cracked right after I put it in.. and it wasn't mounted with any tabs.. I bought the Artec bracket to put it in just so it wouldn't crack.. Still cracked.. Not sure how Greg has ran his without any cracks.. unless the roofing stuff helps out?  If I was to do it again I would get plastic and run a separate pump like Bob's |
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Greg
Full Member
Posts: 330
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Fuel cells
Mar 22, 2015 17:58:30 GMT -6
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Post by Greg on Mar 22, 2015 17:58:30 GMT -6
Mine sits in a hole surrounded on all 4 sides and the bottom by steel and is only connected to the frame, not tied to the body or anything that flexes.
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Post by Somebody on Mar 22, 2015 18:20:34 GMT -6
Mine sits in a hole surrounded on all 4 sides and the bottom by steel and is only connected to the frame, not tied to the body or anything that flexes. Maybe thats the difference.. Ghoulie's is bolted to the tub.. hhhmmmm |
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Post by N2DEEP on Mar 23, 2015 22:21:20 GMT -6
Are the cracked ones mounted directly to metal? Seems they should be insulated from what they are mounted to. Frames and bodies both flex. If you're gonna mount it by tabs, I would think you would want rubber above and below the tabs to let it be somewhat independent.
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Post by SW86 on Mar 24, 2015 5:50:30 GMT -6
My thoughts exactly. Smacking rocks transfers a lot of energy and having some insulation would greatly help imo
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Post by SW86 on Mar 24, 2015 5:52:09 GMT -6
Another reason to go plastic too. No cracks! Just long term uv damage making it brittle! Lol
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Post by Somebody on Mar 24, 2015 5:56:57 GMT -6
Are the cracked ones mounted directly to metal? Seems they should be insulated from what they are mounted to. Frames and bodies both flex. If you're gonna mount it by tabs, I would think you would want rubber above and below the tabs to let it be somewhat independent. Summit use to sell ones that had tabs welded on them... but they stopped making them with mounting tabs cause of everyone complaining that they crack. Rubber washers would prolly help I'm sure but didn't think about that at the time I mounted my brackets.. |
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