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Post by 06blackmax on Mar 5, 2014 7:12:35 GMT -6
All my stuff came from Ausleys Chevelle parts. Most was Dynacorn. Very good fitment !
Oh and it's a Chevelle not a Nova.
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Post by Shadrock on Mar 5, 2014 21:12:36 GMT -6
You not have the Chevy II?
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Post by 06blackmax on Mar 6, 2014 7:15:20 GMT -6
No sir. 66 Chevelle SS. 396 4 SPD. Don't remember who had a Chevy II.
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Post by Shadrock on Mar 9, 2014 16:36:17 GMT -6
Well, I've been pecking away...
Built the jig..
Found more rust on the dash and inner cowl, yee haw... I kinda expected this, however, I am fortunate that the windshield channel on the sides and top were still solid. I "think" around the back glass is solid also.
Had grandpa's old compressor gone through.
Cleaned up the shop
Got the jig ready to go, just need to figure out how to get the body on it...
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Post by mike on Mar 9, 2014 20:12:07 GMT -6
you need to build you one of these
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Post by Shadrock on Mar 10, 2014 5:47:01 GMT -6
My luck the roof probably wouldn't support that...
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Post by davidsyj on Mar 10, 2014 18:32:14 GMT -6
My luck the roof probably wouldn't support that... It will. Just make the feet the length of the window openings to spread that weight out across a larger surface.
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Post by Shadrock on Mar 10, 2014 19:51:00 GMT -6
I lucked up. The legs on the picker actually slid under the jig and the jig fit right between the jack stands at the rocker panels. So it wasn't bad at all. The jig fit like a glove...
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Post by 06blackmax on Mar 11, 2014 6:22:18 GMT -6
Mine has the same theory behind it, but the cart came from a factory I do work at (it was headed for the scrap trailer) and we added some 2" angle across it for the attachment points. It kept the body very square and solid while working on it. Plus I could move it around while working on the frame.
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Post by Shadrock on Mar 13, 2014 12:14:02 GMT -6
Yep, mainly been doing this along with 12 oz curls... I did manage to clean off the firewall to expose the spot welds... yeah, I know 30 minutes worth of work. I learned that not all wire brushes are created equal. The big one on the left is one I got from an industrial supply house, it's a no name, but it's a Cadillac... Ran smooth and worked a lot faster, runs about $11. The red one on the right is a harbor freight $4 piece. It vibrated the shit out of my hand and for some reason didn't take off near as much. Who would have thunk it? Sweetness lied to me, size does matter... OK, time for question and answers... Question, What would you guys use to remove this pipe plug? It's a square 1" drive and has been on the compressor tank for 40 years or so. Pipe wrench and cheater? Special square socket?
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Post by misplaceddesertrat on Mar 13, 2014 12:17:05 GMT -6
hmmm, that plug doesn't look exactly square anymore. That have leaning towards pipe wrench/cheater.
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Post by misplaceddesertrat on Mar 13, 2014 12:17:55 GMT -6
oh, and lots of penetrating oil first. Might be a bit stubborn after 40 years...
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Post by Shadrock on Mar 13, 2014 12:25:38 GMT -6
oh, and lots of penetrating oil first. Might be a bit stubborn after 40 years... Yeah, I "may have" rounded it a touch with an adjustable wrench and an 8' cheater. She's soaking in PB blaster at the moment. Think it'd hurt to throw some heat on it?
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Post by misplaceddesertrat on Mar 13, 2014 13:15:59 GMT -6
Yeah, I "may have" rounded it a touch with an adjustable wrench and an 8' cheater. She's soaking in PB blaster at the moment. Think it'd hurt to throw some heat on it? Good thought, heating up the threads on the tank may help expand them so that they release the plug
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Post by mike on Mar 13, 2014 13:28:22 GMT -6
I agree, Heat, Pipe wrench, and a cheater
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