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8.8 swap
Feb 9, 2014 17:52:55 GMT -6
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Post by Off_Road_Teacher on Feb 9, 2014 17:52:55 GMT -6
The ford 8.8 swap is a common upgrade to those that are less fortunately stuck with a dana 35. I figured this would be a great thread for others to see what they needed If they were curious in this upgrade. For those that have used this, post up your info and insights.
Thanks:)
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Post by mike on Feb 9, 2014 20:44:37 GMT -6
I think is a great idea and will be watching and hoping there is some input here. It will be on my list of upgrades someday ... If i can ever finish this truck
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Post by Weezul on Feb 9, 2014 22:35:00 GMT -6
I've got some stuff I'll put in here when I'm at a computer.
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Post by Somebody on Feb 9, 2014 23:05:30 GMT -6
Ben knows a lot about these swaps.. Maybe he'll add his bit!
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Post by BEN on Feb 9, 2014 23:34:52 GMT -6
Lets forget about the 28 spline 8.8's as we don't care about those, that's the Ranger/Mustang 8.8..
31 spline 8.8's are found in 1991-2001 Explorers and 2001-2005 Sport Tracs. 1991-1994 are drum brakes and 95-01 Explorers are disc. All Sport Tracs are disc except some rare early 01 models. Explorers after 01 and Sport Tracs after 05 are independent but still an 8.8.
Another source of 31 Spline 8.8's is the 2001-03(?) FX4 Ranger. This will be an expensive axle though as they are highly sought after in the RBV World as a bolt in 31 spline option to other Rangers. Also this is a Torsen posi setup.
Gears. Most common in 91-94 will be 3.21 and 3.73. 95-01 you can pretty easily find 4.10's. Buy the 4.10's as just the ring and pinion will sell for $100ish on most RBV Forums. Can recoup most your costs of the axle that way. Limited slip and open carriers should be easily found. Learn to read the Data tags to see the ratio and carrier. The tag is two rows of digits. Second row should read something like 4(space)10 or 4L10. First is open 4.10 second is limited slip.
All explorer 8.8's are SUA and don't have shock mounts on the axle as they mount to the bracket of the ubolts. Not that this matters for TJ's.
another 8.8 that is out there is the full width. Not a bad axle but there are better choices in the full width world.
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8.8 swap
Feb 10, 2014 13:14:24 GMT -6
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Post by Off_Road_Teacher on Feb 10, 2014 13:14:24 GMT -6
Awesome info! Ok which bracket works the best? The artec comes with a truss but the ironrock offroad provides a similar kit but cheaper.
What all is needed to bolt up and ride?
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Post by BEN on Feb 10, 2014 13:35:51 GMT -6
I've seen it done 2 different ways.
Artec is the easiest/best IMO. It's a truss and you don't have to piece each bracket on one by one. You have the truss and the shock pieces(I think.. It's the truss and one other thing).
The other is set of brackets you have to weld on one by one. Measure more, focus more, etc.
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Post by Somebody on Feb 10, 2014 16:55:05 GMT -6
Artec... Bought a bunch of their stuff when doing my build... good stuff!
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Post by Weezul on Feb 10, 2014 20:14:57 GMT -6
There are quite a few nice things when it comes to the 8.8 in a TJ. BracketsI've got the Mad4wd brackets and haven't had any issues with them. They are harder to setup than the Artec truss but are also cheaper. There are plenty of write-ups on the internet that tell you exactly where to place the brackets. Sway bar clearanceThe ABS sensor on the 8.8 has 2 ears on either side of it. I had to cut them off so that the TJ sway bar didn't hit them. The sensor didn't get hit so I left it on just to keep the hole plugged. Some people have to notch the bracket on the passenger side of the pinion for clearance as well. If you really want to get rid of the ABS sensor as well...ECGS has this for $1.50. eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-4985641-ford-8-8-abs-sensor-freeze-plug.htmlTubes
Weld them up...even if you do the Artec truss. Ask BOB... Gears
When ordering new gears and install kit...do yourself (or the person setting up the gears) a favor and get a crush sleeve eliminator kit. Upgrades
I have the Super 88 kit in mine that upgrades the shafts to a chromoly shaft and gets rid of the C-clips. Makes it a lot easier if you have to pull a shaft by not having to open the pumpkin. Outboarding shocks
I haven't done this but have read the due to the 8.8 being slightly narrower than a TJ rear axle, the calipers get in the way of the shocks. A simple solution is to swap the backing plates and calipers to the opposite sides (driver to passenger and passenger to driver). To be able to use the e-brake after the swap, you'll need these adapters for $60. www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/Wizard-Brackets-Reverse-TJ-Style-Parking-Brake-Cables-BRAKE-WIZARD-BRACKETS.htmE-brake lines
East Coast Gear Supply has these available for $60. eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-2883391-tj-ford-8-8-e-brake-cables.html1310 Adapter Flange
You'll need this to be able to use the same u-joints the TJs use. I've been running one since I put the 8.8 in without issues. Others have broken theirs and upgraded to a yoke. Mostly when I've seen one break it was on a leaf sprung rig that had some axle wrap issues... eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-2883391-tj-ford-8-8-e-brake-cables.html
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Post by davidsyj on Feb 10, 2014 20:29:06 GMT -6
The only info I will post in here is what Weezie laughed at me about.
I did the 8.8 swap in my YJ, had zero issues with the axle housing until i put the Detroit "spool" in there. When I did this it gave that passenger side tire a ton more traction.....obviously. Well, I never welded my tubes to my pumpkin so it twisted the pumpkin on the driver side tube. The reason it did this is because my anti-wrap bar kept the driver side tube stationary but allowed the chunk and pass side tube to spin as one unit.
Make sure when you do this swap that you weld the tubes solid to the chunk. You'll get a lot of input on how to "properly" do this with nickle rods and blah blah blah..... Greg actually has a lot of info on what to do on this in a thread I posted in the YJ Tech section concerning welding the tubes. I burned them to the chunk with a portable 110 flux core welder adjusted the heat to high and went at it. Honestly, for what we do, I feel the weld will hold as it's now solid on both tubes.
My point, WELD THE TUBES SOLID while you have the housing out. You'll thank me later.
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Post by Somebody on Feb 10, 2014 23:13:25 GMT -6
Great info in here guys!!
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8.8 swap
Feb 11, 2014 9:33:49 GMT -6
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Post by Off_Road_Teacher on Feb 11, 2014 9:33:49 GMT -6
Awesome info!!
Can the stock control arms be used or will adjustable arms be needed?
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8.8 swap
Feb 11, 2014 10:40:42 GMT -6
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Post by BEN on Feb 11, 2014 10:40:42 GMT -6
Disc Brake Swap for Drum axles... This worked for me as I used a 93 housing.
Disclaimer; I've been told this is not always the case though.
All I did was take the disc brake stuff, backing plate out and bolt it to my drum housing. The shafts and housings are the same (in my case..I don't see where there would be any difference).
That being the case you could go grab backing plates, calipers, rotors, and pads to easily convert an 8.8 to disc brakes. Although you may want to consider a master cylinder upgrade for this to.... For my B2 it'll be a f250. For a Jeep, idk!
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8.8 swap
Feb 11, 2014 10:44:15 GMT -6
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Post by BEN on Feb 11, 2014 10:44:15 GMT -6
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Post by Weezul on Feb 11, 2014 14:21:01 GMT -6
Awesome info!! Can the stock control arms be used or will adjustable arms be needed? I needed upper adjustable to set the pinion angle. I don't see why stock lower arms wouldn't work.
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