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Post by musclehead on Jun 5, 2013 12:27:47 GMT -6
The proportioning valve is mounted below the master and has a big nut in the end. Unscrew the nut and remove the rod and spring that's inside, on the end of the rod is an o ring, remove the o ring and reinstall the rod spring and nut. This will allow a little more fluid to the rear. I ve never heard that before. So that o ring is what controls the flow for the rear brakes? So putting in different proportioning valves are really not needed?
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Post by STROKER on Jun 5, 2013 12:32:25 GMT -6
man u people r full of great information
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Greg
Full Member
Posts: 330
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Post by Greg on Jun 5, 2013 14:42:01 GMT -6
Well that's cool as shit if it bolts right on cause I've got the master cylinder off the 3/4 ton dodge I got the axels from You will have to grind down the metal rod that goes inside the booster a little cause it'll be too long.. and if you have cruise you will have to relocate the controls in front of the MC... but nothing major.. I had to change the rod that comes out of the booster for a longer one. I needed one that was 1.25" longer. It was a 1/4"x28 bolt
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Post by Somebody on Jun 5, 2013 17:36:17 GMT -6
You will have to grind down the metal rod that goes inside the booster a little cause it'll be too long.. and if you have cruise you will have to relocate the controls in front of the MC... but nothing major.. I had to change the rod that comes out of the booster for a longer one. I needed one that was 1.25" longer. It was a 1/4"x28 bolt AH shit... that's right.. It has to be longer not shorter... What I remember is rounding off the end to make it work.. sorry!
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Post by STROKER on Jun 5, 2013 18:16:37 GMT -6
ahhhhh ok
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