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Post by Shadrock on Feb 23, 2014 15:27:34 GMT -6
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Post by James on Feb 23, 2014 15:33:31 GMT -6
Yes, 220 is two hot terminals and should have a common ground.
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Post by Shadrock on Feb 23, 2014 16:03:32 GMT -6
Yes, 220 is two hot terminals and should have a common ground. That's what I'm use to seeing, but this dude doesn't have a ground wire.
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Post by Somebody on Feb 23, 2014 16:58:05 GMT -6
This is set up to run either 115 or 220.. it has to be set up internally for each one differently.. Do you know how it was setup before?? If you run 220 to this and the contacts inside are not right then you will mess it up..
The label that shows the different configurations is what you need to go by.. Either way the 2 hot legs go to each leg.. and the neutral is probably externally grounded..
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Post by Somebody on Feb 23, 2014 16:59:29 GMT -6
OH.. and you might wanna check on the lady in the first pic..
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Post by Shadrock on Feb 23, 2014 17:55:20 GMT -6
yeah, I noticed it showed both voltages. I'm not used to that, so it threw me for a loop. I'm pretty confident that it was hooked to 220V last time, but not a 100% sure. The lady in the back is my mother, she'd been baby sitting my niece and nephew the past couple days and it pretty much done her in.
What kind of shop would I carry it to, to have it looked at?
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Post by Somebody on Feb 23, 2014 18:03:15 GMT -6
yeah, I noticed it showed both voltages. I'm not used to that, so it threw me for a loop. I'm pretty confident that it was hooked to 220V last time, but not a 100% sure. The lady in the back is my mother, she'd been baby sitting my niece and nephew the past couple days and it pretty much done here in. What kind of shop would I carry it to, to have it looked at? Actually if you follow the wires to the the motor there should be a box or cover that you can remove... you should be able to see the contacts and how it's wired up.. Just follow the diagram and see how they have the wires.. If it's set up for 115 then you can change the contacts on the motor to run 220 or vice versa.. In essence what you are doing is changing which coils the power is going to.. less coils for 220 and more for 115.. hence it takes more power to run 115... If you put 220 to smaller coils then you burn up those coils.. Man this is much easier when it's in front of me..
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Post by Shadrock on Feb 23, 2014 18:19:28 GMT -6
In my hand is the wires going into the motor... I notice one wire is spliced into two wires going into the motor.
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Post by mike on Feb 23, 2014 18:38:22 GMT -6
by looking at the diagram on the yellow tag and only two wires coming out of the motor it would make since to me that it is wired for 115 but i'm far from an electrician !!
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Post by Shadrock on Feb 23, 2014 18:54:17 GMT -6
That big nut/bolt on top of the pressure switch could be for the neutral, but I'm not sure.
What's the T's and L's stand for on the diagram? Minot going to pretend to know...
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Post by Somebody on Feb 23, 2014 19:24:30 GMT -6
Those round cylinders are capacitors.. they help with the initial load draw on start up.. From there I'm now at a loss.. I notice that 2 of the wires go to the motor which is good..
Edit.. My google fu is strong tonight..
Look at the back of the motor.. There is a plate that can be unscrewed.. That is where you junction is to change voltage.. Compare it to the diagram and see if that is right...
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Post by Somebody on Feb 23, 2014 19:25:58 GMT -6
Oh.. and T is for transformer (capacitor) and L is for Line
The bolt on top may be for neutral.. but the nut beside it looks for like a set up for a wire... Look at the small one and see if it's just mounted to the frame and no wires are coming from it.. if so then that's it
If you can take the cover off and take a pic showing where the line wires are connected and maybe I can tell ya how it's wired..
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Post by Shadrock on Feb 23, 2014 20:24:23 GMT -6
Pic of the back of the motor plate removed... ? yeah, I know, not much help... If I take the 4 studs off will that allow me to remove the back of the housing? Would that even help if I did?
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Post by mike on Feb 23, 2014 20:40:55 GMT -6
pull that little clip and then remove the second cover, I think that will reveal the wiring connections
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Post by 06blackmax on Feb 23, 2014 21:39:17 GMT -6
It's wired 220v. Look at the tag, it shows how many wires come out of the motor to the capacitors then to the power supply. Three wire tied together then two wires to one supply and a single supply. All those wires go the the fields and brushes. You can wire that motor to run on 110v or 220v and you can run it CW or CCW ( clockwise or counter-clock wise). I've got a compressor just like that. The tag on the motor shows it a 3hp 1750 rpm. It's slow but good. You'll need to hook your ground to somewhere on that box with the capacitors in it. If you hook it to a "fuse" box be sure to use slow blow fuses because that motor will draw a lot of amps to start especially when your using it and it has to restart with pressure on the pump. If it's hooked to a breaker it needs a 30a at least or you'll be resetting it all the time.
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